Well we have made it to Ulan-Ude, Russia.  This is a big city that used to be Mongolian.  There is a huge head of Lenin in the town square-but none of the Russians seem to like him…  Well here is a quick recap of what has happened since we have last updated…  We were able to get our car out of holding on Thursday-which was very lucky!  Then we headed for Khabarovsk and stayed the night in a very nice and expensive hotel.  This would be our last hotel with a nice bed and a real bathroom for a while.  The next day we began our second and hardest leg of our trip: Chita.  Chita is some 2100 km from Khabarovsk.  Yeah, I know that doesn’t seem so far.  Ha!  I laugh at you!  You are right, it is not that far, but on crap dirt roads it is a very very long drive.  When we came close to Bhirobijan we saw a BEAUTIFUL paved road with absolutely no cracks and just perfect in every way.  My dad and I had heard that the Russians had planned to pave the road from Khabarovsk to Chita by 2008.  So when we saw this road my dad and I thought this was going to be great!  NOPE!  Then not even 15 miles into our journey was our happiness and hopes crushed to smithereens.  The battle between us and the dirt road began!  My dad and I went at a snail’s pace on the dirt roads to ensure that Suzi would stay in good condition.  So that is where our time went.  We spent 4 days driving to Chita.  We camped the first night.  We were almost eaten alive by savage mosquitoes so we hid away inside our small tent.  Because Russia is so far north, the sun does not set until 10 pm and rises at 5 am-so the days are crazy long!  So my dad and I didn’t start to doze off until 11 pm, then at 2 am it began to rain…  When we set up the tent there were clouds in the sky-but not enough to make it rain.  Then a couple of minutes later lightning and thunder began to boom across the sky.  I don’t know if I have ever experienced such a scary storm before in my life.  The lightning came so often and bright we could see everything inside the tent.  To make matters worse it was freaking cold-around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.  Then our tent began to leak so we quickly moved into the car with our sleeping bags and left everything else in the tent-that could get wet.  My dad slept ok enough, I did not.  I was freezing and couldn’t go to sleep.  I was also not feeling too well.  After that night my dad and I decided that we are not campers and we would sleep in the car from now on. 

Russian drivers are fearless.  This is fact.  They drive like no other no matter the road conditions.  The road to Chita is filled with a lot of drivers.  The fleets are drivers who drive cars from Japan across Russia to various Russian cities to sell.  They are the most common drivers we see on the road.  You can tell them apart because they tape up their cars –to protect them from rock damage- and they drive in a line.  There are always a small group of them.  You can see them weaving in and out of other traffic on the road and of the potholes and ditches.  Well we finally reached Chita with the help of the fleet driver, Andrei, who let us follow him-he was a very careful and much slower driver compared to the other fleet drivers.  He helped us find our hotel as well then he continued his journey to Ulan-Ude at 11 pm.  Brave man.  We stayed in the Panama City hotel, which was overpriced-but it had beds and a real bathroom so we didn’t complain.  I took my long awaited shower and we went to eat a real dinner.  My cold had gotten somewhat better and all I have left is a very sore throat.  It only hurts when I swallow-so eating is very painful.  So the next day we woke up at 9, instead of the crack of dawn, and headed to Ulan-Ude.  It began to snow and was getting colder as we went further west.  We got about a fourth of the way there when we hit traffic.  A truck had fallen over and was blocking the two lane road to Ulan-Ude.  We sat there for about 2 and a half hours before the police showed up and then 30 minutes later they told everyone to leave and head back.  So there was no going to Ulan-Ude.  We headed back to Chita as I was not feeling well enough to have another night in the car.  So the following day we tried again for Ulan-Ude and we were successful.  But as soon as we turned on the car, the “check engine light” came on.  The reason was because on the road to Chita, we filled up Suzi with octane 80 gas-because they were out of octane 92 and 95.  So we called mom, who called Phil, from the Suzuki dealership, and he told us to put octane booster into the tank next time we filled up.  SO we did but the light was still on, however Suzi was driving well.  So we didn’t worry too much.  We made it to Ulan-Ude at 7 or 8 pm.  We stayed in a dirt cheap hotel, but we soon found the reason why it was so cheap-no hot water or internet.  Also the elevator was ancient beyond belief.  It sounded like it was going to break down any moment.  While finding parking for Suzi she began to creak.  My dad and I began to worry more.  We went to eat at a fast food place and while there we began to wonder about what we were going to do about Suzi.  We decided that we needed to go to a mechanic to make sure Suzi is alright, because if anything happens to her our trip is over.  A group of young Russian girls sat behind us at the fast food joint and my dad made me ask them if they spoke English and could help us.  Apparently I am unintimidating and nice looking-so I am the one who has the job of asking people for help.  Yay me!  Well there was one girl at the table who could help us, Irina.  She spoke a little English and began to tell us where to go to find a mechanic but decided it was too hard and decided to take us there herself.  My dad followed in Suzi while I went with Irina.  As it was 10 pm the mechanic was closed, but Irina said she would take us to a better mechanic tomorrow.  She dropped us off at the hotel and promised to meet us tomorrow. 

At 10 this morning we met Irina in front of the hotel my dad followed Irina and I in her car to her brother’s house where we picked up her brother, Stish-who knows more about cars.  We then headed to the mechanic and after about 2 hours Suzi was all fixed-even her check engine light was gone.  We thanked Irina and Stish over and over again.  But they wouldn’t have it.  Irina dropped us back at the hotel and we said goodbye.  My dad and I decided to check into a better hotel with internet and spent the day in the room.  I took a nap, since I am still not feeling well.  We called Irina and Stish to invite them to dinner as a thank you and met them at a Mongolian pub and restaurant called the Modern Nomad.  This has got to be one of the coolest places Russia has.  It was very cool, but I still can’t eat much so I ate only a little of my Queen’s Chicken-which made me sad as it was really good.  We then said goodbye to Irina and Stish and headed to the hotel to use the internet.

After all this, I have learned the main reason people do these kinds of trips around the world.  It is to meet people.  We have met so many nice people in our journey so far.  There have been so many people who come up to us and wish us luck in our journey.  A Russian lady even gave me a hug when I told her about the trip.  The people have got to be one of the best parts of this trip.  And I am glad I have met everyone of them!

Well, we are still in Vlad., Russia.  

We are just going through the processes of the Russian system.  Hopefully we will get our car today and we will be able to start the trip today.   

We met the local Indian celebrity yesterday at dinner.  We went to his restaurant and we had a talk.  

He is a very nice guy, he even invited us to dinner at his house tonight if we are still in Vlad.  

I really really hope we get our car today!!  My dad and I saw the car yesterday and she looked so cute!  Btw, my dad decided that all cars are girls so Suzi is a she.

Right now it is around 9 am and we are waiting for Michael to pick us up so we can continue the customs processes today.  

Well, hopefully our next blog will be from Khabarovsk-or somewhere over there.

 Wish us luck!

Ami

Hey all,

Well I have reached Vlad., Russia.  I got here yesterday afternoon.  Today we have been working with the customs agents to let us have our car back, I do not think we will get our car until tonight or maybe tomorrow, so that means the trip will actually start tomorrow-hopefully!

Well Vlad. reminds me of London, it is cloudy and cold.  It is a nice town but I want to leave so we can start our trip so I am kind of antsy.  In our hotel we met a Indian-from India and my dad invited him to join us on our trip.  However, his visa expires on May 28 so he will only be with us for about a week.  But right now we are in the hotel lobby and my dad is trying to find him. 

OK well I got to go!

Ami

Vladivostok: Weather: cold… 55F Sunny Meaning “Lord of the East” Founded in 1860 on Golden Horn Bay. Tsar Nicholas II came here to inaugurate the New Great Trans-Siberian rail line. By early 20th century Vladivostok became a major port teeming with merchants from China, Korea and Hong Kong. Vladivostok is the home place for actor Yul Bryner. Vladivostok is slowly returning to it’s glory after the long soviet snooze. Vladivostok was firmly off limits to all foreigners –and most Russians-during the life of USSR. Today you can –fairly free –hop on ferries to far-off beaches on former navy only islands. It has been compared to San Francisco.

Arrived here on Friday about noon local time. It took almost an hour by the time Russian immigration agent came on board for who knows what. After about an hour we were all allowed to go to immigration – small room- with 4 booths each taking almost 30-40 minute per person no matter you are Russian or foreigner. Room was crowded with passenger from ferry with all the stuff carry to the custom and try to squeeze huge boxes, bags, car panels, and some unknown objects through small alley by the booth which is supposed to be for human lineup. By the time I got out it was good 3PM it took only 20 minutes for my immigration but took good 3 hours to get out. The custom was easy. I tried to put my bags on security scanner belt and custom officer told me not to and said “ no terrorist” with good laugh and lead me out on street by back door. Here I was in some alley with bunch of guys smoking by their cars , not knowing where I was stopped the policeman to ask for public phone and he showed me go up there cross the street. I went back inside the custom and ask the same custom officer that I have some custom documents I need to give him. We walked to few offices and they all seemed ready to go home. Finally he told me in broken English that I need and an broker and it will take three days to get my car. Finally I found the way to go outside where bunch of taxis and bus stand. Here I got ripped off by taxi driver. The Hotel was 3 minute walk-which I found out same day-took him 5 minutes drive and charged me 300 Rubles which is about $13. 

After I checked in Hotel I called my agent and she says nothing can be done till Monday now even though the custom is open till 6 and we still have 2 hours.

Saturday: I walked around town. Went back to terminal where I took taxi –or got ripped off- took 2 minutes. It’s a fine city. Statue of Lenin pointing to west as if he hoped to conquer the west. Well the statue covered with pigeons’ crap, so I guess he is not that important anymore. I was the only one taking pictures. It seems it is not a tourist city. Town center is full of name brand shopping. Russian women dress well and guys seem to drink a lot. I have seen people walk with big bottles of beer at 10AM. There are stalls for beer everywhere. It’s easy to get beer then bottle of water. Found a C-56 class submarine across the Golden Horn Bay, which can be visited for 50 rubles and 50 more for camera. Pretty sight but littered with beer bottles. At the bay there are Russian navy ships with canon and it’s all fighting power. There is wedding season in full swing at nearby Russian Orthodox Church. There must be 10 to 12 couples were getting married. I read from Lonely Planet guide that there is Krishna cafe nearby and have good food and I could use some good Indian food. Well the place I have been looking all over for at least an hour asking lots of people but couldn't find it and as I was ready merge in Italian Café , I heard some chanting with familiar music and saw bunch of Hare Krishna - God Bless them for their efforts - spreading the good word of lord in this ungodly country. I followed them to their place which happens to be on Main Street busy with design clothes shopping area. There is small door and bunch of cement bags all over the floor as if the earth quake has just hit this place. I must have passed this place 4 times. There is small stair case going in basement and found of bunch of Russian converts messing in basement. I was greeted with Hare Krishna and offered mixed vegetables in plastic container. Krishna Cafe was closed down. One young Russian convert named Sergei spoke brilliant Hindi and even wrote nicely. I felt bad that he knew more than I did. (see photos)

Monday and it's my D-Day. We start at 9AM to hassle with Russian Custom. Everybody I talked to says good luck with sort of doubt and I am not sure what this means. I know they have huge back logs of cars waiting to be cleared. I will need that good luck. I guess they don’t work here as we do in US. They stop working at 3Pm and take a long lunch time. I will have to buy car Insurance before I go to Custom. No one seems to know what the real procedure is and maybe that’s why I need an agent. By the way talking about bureaucracies, we need to register our visa at every city we visit. What this means is that they give you small piece of paper at immigration which you need to carry with you all the time. Every hotel you stay they need to stamp that. Some hotels don’t so then you need to find tourist agency who will charge you $30 for the stamp. I guess Russian authority need to know where you are at all times during your visit. If you miss any days then when you exit the country they can create a problem or at least an opportunity for bribe. I have heard it could be as big as $900. As we going to camp out in some areas, we need to figure this out. Talk about “perestroika”. By the way there are no maps for the city. I looked for map store yesterday, found book stores but no maps. The Airport is about 50 KM from the hotel or town. Ami will be arriving at 2:00PM so I need to get the car before that and start driving at the airport without getting lost.

The city is flooded with Hondas and Toyotas. I also saw some Suzukis . Japanese cars are all over. Few Audi and Mercs. Even one Hummer and couple of Fords. They say here that if you see an expensive car – like that hummer- chances are that belongs to Russian Mafia. Talking about the cars. Only about one car in a thousand there is left hand drive. Since in Russia (unlike Japan) the cars travel on the right side of the road, having right hand drive cars makes for an interesting situation Driving is similar to any third world country. Horns, people cross everywhere, park anywhere, turn anywhere. No road signs-couldn’t read if any-road names. English almost non existence here. One needs to learn to read Cyrillic.

By the way I get phone calls in middle of the night form supposed to be beautiful Russian girls for any services I need –perestroika is working and economy is in full swing here. This hotel supposed to be business class. They are step ahead of Vegas. Wish I could get the interpreter same way.

Seoul:

It appears to be fine and prosperous city within a fine country. People are well behaved, well dressed and love their high tech toys. Cell phones I see here are advanced and even work in subway trains –unlike London underground. People you can trust with absolutely no fear of security or your wallet to be picked.

Talking about underground, it’s well planned, wider trains and clean stations. Even train hawkers are well dressed. Hawker will sell pens in trains. He will leave a pen on your lap and make a round back to you meanwhile you check the pen and decide to buy or not.

Today is Buddha’s birthday and it’s national holiday in Korea. Koreans follow Christianity and Buddhism as their two major religions. I visited Royal Palace, which is situated right in middle of the city occupying some huge complex of some expensive real estate. Right behind it there is current presidential resident.

The palace itself is not so impressive once you have seen others in England ,France and India. There are no gold or silver gilded ornaments or ivory carving.

It’s simple bamboo wooded Chinese pagoda style bunch of buildings – similar structures as Buddhist relics in one huge area surrounded with beautiful gardens, water ponds full of lilies and lotuses. Made with all woods no nails and brightly painted But they put a good show there. Characters dress as old traditional Korean kings’ solders and put up royal show.

I also visited National Museum of Folk Culture of Korea. This museum is full of Korean culture –which follows Chinese- making an honorable effort to distinguish themselves as different people and nothing to do with Chinese or Japanese who by the way have sacked Korea multiple times. Koreans have not forgotten this and they despise both countries, specially Japan and never seem to forgive for 35 years of occupation and now competing in auto market.

There is also a history of Korean language and its origin-which is Chinese.

All the souvenirs for Korean culture are made in China. Thus no country has escaped from invasion of cheap Chinese craps.

Young Koreans seem to be more westernized then western people. They all seem to wear latest fashions and shops are everywhere selling name brands. Women carry LV purses. Talking about shopping, which is everywhere by the way.

There is no empty space over ground, underground, subway stations are shopping parades.  To get to your train you need to go through huge long shopping parade. All the brands and everything under sky-in this case concrete ceiling. Nearly bought some North face gear myself but then I remembered the back of my car looks with full of bags.

I also climbed little mountain top to visit Seoul tower. This is in middle of the town . you take a elevator to top and view the whole city 360 degree view. Beautiful Han River and the city surrounding it. I guess most ancient cities’ civilization starts around a river. Here is where I see some strange curios stuff. There are wired fences on ground floor which is beneath the tower called romantic corner where young people bring all kinds of locks – yes locks large, huge, coded locks even bicycle locks and hang them to the wire with sharpie written –Love forever and similar romantic scriptures. This still does not prevent high divorce rates among young Koreans.

One guy must be so much in love that he had 46 pink colored locks all hang on wire in heart shape. One has huge 2kg padlock –that guy must be a body builder.

Anyway I enjoyed the tower and walked down with lesser effort then climbing up.

Walked to historical area of Seoul city called Insa-dong – lots of dong, bang and ongs here, here first time I see bunch of tourist shopping and full of different restaurants. More food and more shopping.

I also change the hotel which has internet.

I drove 40 miles north to the world’s most active hostile border. It’s called now Unification Point and it has observatory.

By the way my Garmin GPS 60CSX it’s not so accurate. According to garmin I was driving inside 20-30 miles on Sea of Japan. It seems either Koreans fill up that part of the sea with roads, mountains and farms and forgot to tell Garmin.

Passing lots of small villages and impressive looking military personals. Try to sneak in some pictures, got one so far.

It is amazing, Koreans farm in such small pieces of land that it’s more likely gardens. These farms are touching the barbed wire on border. There is no space or land to be wasted here.

It is a somber place. One side of the border ,people are happy and prospers while other side who knows –if we trust CNN and they all are in rat hole.

It seems so close but far way. We drive on small road between two fences of barbed wires.

The film in auditorium was in Korean showing all the grim things can happen in war. I was rather disappointed about not showing anything about American sacrifice-55000 some service men and women- in this war. At least waving American flag or “Thank you USA” would have helped.

Talking to young Koreans means little about the war. Their parents must have dragged them here. They all ware t-shirts or jackets written in English however none will speak English.

Great honest straight forward people they seem to be. Food is most bizarre. Anyone with the adventure in food, this is paradise.

I yet have to see some species of fishes in aquarium around the world, let alone on food plate. Small stall on side of the road one can see all types of dried fishes for sale including octopuses and stingrays –fish jerky.

Also noticed that there is nothing foreign here as we see in west. All stuff made in Korea except extremely few Japanese cars – 4 to be exact so far. It’s got to be protectionism.

All around me I see Hyundais, Kias, daewoos. They seem to make everything in Korea. Hyundai rules this country. Cars, farming equipments, trucks, trains, buses, elevators, ACs, Gas Stations and even apartment blocks.

 You can almost fool yourself looking in your rear view mirror that there is Merc beaming on you only to find out it is damn good copy by Kia.

Let’s talk about Gas price. Ouch –it hurts- it’s $10 a gallon. It me few fills before I got hang of it –every time top up and it cost 30,000 three big green ones. That’s $30

Border Between North and South Korea

Arrived here last night and had a good walk around area. Found a office for my shipping agent whon I shall meet tomorrow to get the car released.

Busan:

Busan (Pusan) is Korea's second largest city with close to 4 million people. It also serves as the country's main port for international cargo, as well as passenger ferries to Japan and Jeju Island. The city is famous for its seafood and beaches, as well as the Hallyosudo Waterway with its picturesque islands. The Busan fish market has a huge selection of fresh seafood in the early morning. Although primarily known as a port, the city has many steep hills, creating a very unusual mix of mountains and ocean. The area remained relatively untounched during the Korean War, but the flood of refugees drastically shaped the city.

May 4^th Sunday

Arrived in Seoul after grueling 14 hours flight in coach class in insidious drizzle, foggy and muggy.

I boarded local flight from Phoenix to San Francisco. As my plane roared on runway at Phoenix airport, I couldn’t help but the feeling came upon me that plane was really faster than I have experienced before as if it couldn’t wait to get me to start this expedition.

Alas I already miss my wife and little one.

Arrived at ICHON airport which is way out of Seoul City - similar to Denver airport. With my luck my bags arrived very last. Got me nervous but on other hand I was hoping they don't arrive. I knew I have to walk to my hotel from bus stop and dragging these two heavy bags will not be fun. Thus airliane will have to deliver to my hotel. Just a thought. 

Took a bus from airport to city and saved myself 70,000 won – as taxi would cost - wow that seem lot of money- dragged two bags to hotel .

Wendy Choi, my local agent in Korea was already calling me at hotel. She came right away and had a dinner together and discussed our plan for Busan – which is the port city where I am supposed to get the car out of port, custom, inspection and God knows what else.

Today I go to Busan by train and find out how many “unknowns” are waiting for me.