Chelyabinsk:
Our journey to Chelyabinsk: We took small road as the M road ended up in Kazakhstan. This is the second time we took the road which was not on map. But we had to circle the border and go west. We travelled north first then west and south to catch the M road again in west. The smaller road was terrible. We thought we passed the bad part of the journey, not so fast. In Russia one can never take anything for granted.
That afternoon we encountered a section of very bad unpaved road which was very muddy and potholed, with standing water in the holes. Extremely slippery type of mud so it was difficult to drive. Unfortunately it had started to rain again. we are nearing Chelyabinsk, which is just on the east side of the Ural mountain range that officially separates Europe from Asia, here Asia being Siberia. After consulting the map, we decided to go to Chelyabinsk to the north, since it is a large city (over one million population) and we've had our fill of floundering around in cities and getting lost. We needed a service for our car as the engine light is showing up we needed the internet.
The drive here was extremely hard. Few times we were really scared as the ground clearance on our car is only 7" and ditches made by big Kamaz trucks were deeper. Few times the car was spinning as we hit the bottom of the car. Ami was driving and she did a brilliant job to put wheel on right part of the hill of the dirt. We were sitting in car very close to windshield with our lungs in throat and hearts in fist. I look back and not sure how we made it. We saw few cars stuck in there. Even large trucks had tough time. I am not sure how Russian people put up with this. They are extremely patience people. It was getting dark and we thought we may not make it this time.
It took us whole day to arrive to Chelyabinsk. Scenery was great though. We passed some starches so long that there was nothing for miles and miles. Just steppe similar in Kazakhstan. It was kind of worrisome but beautiful. We were concerned about petrol. Ami drove brilliantly and intended to pass Chelyabinsk to avoid getting in town and getting out in the morning. This has taken lots of time. So we thought we should crash in cheap road side bunker hotels. But as we neared the town we decided to go in have a good sleep ,catch up with internet and look for car mechanic to check our car as it was showing the check engine light.
Chelyabinsk is Industrial town was established to produce tanks and missile launcher to stop German army. Today it is still an industrial town. Ami navigated with good skill and we found our hotel. Tall large soviet era hold over building, but a good hotel. First time we came across two young girls behind the reception desk. We were taken by their smiles and decided to stay there despite of high price. I handed over one of our "round the world drive" broacher which she took some interest in. We walked in town square which was nice to look for a restaurant. We ended up in pub and had a dinner. We liked the town, reminded me Mill Ave. walk in Tempe.
Next morning we found a Suzuki service shop and girl at front desk gave us direction. We still got lost. It is hard when you cannot see or read road sign. We struggled asked few people. They all wanted to help but couldn't explain. Finally we were just about to give up and saw a banner sign with Suzuki . we followed that and ended up in Renault car dealer. Than I saw bunch of new Suzuki cars in a lot. We stopped and asked and yes, it was Suzuki and Renault all in one. Well after one and half hour circling half a mile area the manager said they were full for a day and couldn't take us in till next day. After few pleadings and telling them what we doing. They suggested that we go to next town - Yekaterinburg- well that happens to be our plan anyway. This town is in North and it is off our route, but being both of us history buffs we wanted to visit this town to see Death site of Romanovs and Church of Blood and also crossing Ural mountain which separates Russia in Asia and Europe. Being in Asia for so long thought of being in Europe excited us as well. It was 250KM north. Manager called the Renault/suzuki service shop in Yekaterinburg, but unfortunately his friend did not work today. As it was a bigger dealership we had a chance. So we drove to Yekaterinburg. It was a good drive apart from frequent police check point.
We noticed that as we go further west there are more police check points. Manager told us that we will have a hard time to find this place as it is on other side of the town. Well he was not joking. We have never seen 3 most complicated design round -abouts ever. We just couldn't figure out. We took care of first one but than got lost in other two. It happens to be all three together. Russia, what can we say. It has lot for us in it's bag. Asking direction was not helping as they just could not explain us how to go about. After few circles, horns, some cussing form other drivers we found the road. We will always remember these round -abouts. We made sure that we create this track in our GPS so we can go back to Chelyabinsk. It was sure way out of the way, but we found it thanks to Ami's skill again. Here first time we saw Famous Golden Arch -Big M, McDonald. We promised to come back for lunch. Well there is aguy named Alexi was waiting for us at the Suzuki. He was in his motorbike leather gear. He specially came for us and immediately put our car on service bay. Alexi left after making sure that car was in computer and being serviced. They told us it will cost around 10000 rubles and two hours and they don't take credit cards. We walked around, got some money from ATM and came back and I slept on couch. Less than two hours our car was done. He told us it was due to bad fuel in Russia. Apparently as we did not have enough trouble with roads. Some fuel stations in Russia mix the petrol octane 92 to 80. You can never be sure. The total bill came up to 6600 rubles. The light is gone, car was washed and we were happy. We started back to Yekaterinburg.
Yekaterinburg:
From the execution of tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918 to the high profile mafia killings in the 1990s, this town is notorious for it's bloody history. It's a beautiful city on river and with grand statues and here we have one more Lenin statue. The economy must be good as we see more European cars than Japanese. I am also happy to announce that we now see Ford and Chevys too. There are still few ugly looking ladas on road. Hummers are also on road. Russians are coming. Just 20 years ago this was impossible. The city was closed to foreigners until 1990 because of it's many defense plants. I asked young lady if the tourism is booming and why the hotels are so expensive- $250 a night in motel 6 room alike. She said the hotels are for local businessmen and not much for tourist. No wonder they give us a strange look when we asked for room. Ami took a picture of Lenin and right behind him there is a huge Samsung advert. Lenin must be turning in his grave as finally Capitalism has taken over his country and there is a new revolution happening. Mr. Putin is highly popular in Russia. People just love him and think he is the best thing happened to Russia.
This time we found a self catering apartment with washing machine. This was our main feature to rent this room as we long needed laundry. It was a great value. We found a Uzbek restaurant nearby and food was excellent.
Next morning we visited our two sites. The death site is now small wooden church where Nicholas II and his family have been revered as saint. I and Ami don't agree with that as Tsar did not do anything to be saint. Vertical city and Russian orthodox church agree with us. But locals have very large statue of nickel metal of whole family including 5 children with huge cross outside church.
What happened to the Romanovs: in 1918, Tsar Nicholas II, his wife and 5 children were murdered in the basement of a local merchant's house by Bolshevik guards. During the soviet period, the building housed a local museum of atheism, but it was demolished by then governor Boris Yeltsin - who was born here and raised in power to be chief of communist party. The house now demolished and there is small wooden church with small gift shop and prayer room. We entered the church and there was prayer going on. We could recognize the word Nicolai few times. So now the tsar is being prayed as a saint. We all heard story of Anesthesia. Well in movie Anesthesia escapes with her younger brother Alexi. But the story goes all five children were murder and bodies were dumped in abandoned mine. With acid poured on them to burn. The two bodies took too long to burn so they tossed several grenades in mine and to destroy the mine with bodies. It is an irony that there is a statue of Lenin across this church; whose people murdered this family.
In 1976 group of local scientists discovered remains of Romanovs and now buried in St. Petersburg's Peter & Paul cathedral, alongside their predecessors Peter the Great. Ami asks me how Russia would be today if Tsar still lived and Bolshevik revolution did not happen.
Church of Blood: The massive Byzantine -style church with golden dome is very impressive. Inside there was still some work going on. This church is built for St. Nicholas II and his family. So far we have seen more onion domed churches in this town. Ami covered her head with hood as this is Russian orthodox church. A book store displaying lots of literature about Nicholas II and his family -nothing in English - and gift shops. A small museum displaying Tsar's family and his old photographs. Anesthesia didn't look anything we see in movie. We both enjoyed these two places.
We now drive to back south to Chelyabinsk and back to our route to west.