Mongolia:

Stat: Population 2.45 million as of 2003

Literacy rate 98%

Horse to person ratio: 13 to 1

Average life expectancy 64

Mongolia occupies a special place in the minds of many dreamers. The vast landscapes, nomadic horseman and the legends of the Mongol horde have enticed wayfarers here for the past 800 years.

Soon after famed dinosaur hunter Roy Chapman Andrews visited in the 1920s, Mongolia's doors were all but slammed shut for most of the 20^th century. But the fall of communism, an aggressive campaigned to put Mongolia back on map with other countries. Only US and Taiwan opposed entry of Mongolia in UN.

Road to Ulan-Bat tar, Mongolia was good and although there was lots of patching in some areas it seemed like a superhighway after the last five days. It felt like we were flying across the earth's surface! The countryside in this area of Russia was, while not spectacularly scenic, very pretty and attractive. It reminded me of parts of Montana but without the high mountains of our American West. There were many valleys surrounded by low hills, the valleys being grassland with an abrupt transition to coniferous forest on the hillsides.

This area was part of the mighty Mongol empire for centuries, and many Asian faces are seen among the people here, including horsemen sometimes herding cattle. It is said that Genghis Khan's mother came from a large, beautiful valley north of Ulan Ude and east of Lake Baikal. One also begins to see many houses in these areas with brightly colored shutters, usually light blue in color but occasionally green or other colors, which I assume are an Asian influence. As we got closure to Mongolia border we encountered few army post and they all stopped us for routine check. They all seem to see our passports. No problem here but it's just nerve racking seeing them with huge machine guns and impressive look with uniform.

We got lost in border town, although it is pretty small town. But finally we entered the border with apprehension and fear of unknown. The major worry I had was Ami's Visa registration. The law in Russia is that once you enter Russia one has to register their visa within first 72 hours or you could be detained and fine heavily. I just did not want to give them an opportunity. I had my visa registered as I came to Russia earlier. When Ami came we got so busy with custom  issue, we totally forgot and the hotel we stayed in did not have visa registration. There were few cars ahead of us and I saw a small gap enough to squeeze my car. I snaked around and put myself in front of all the people waiting. Some gave me strange look and I acted as an ignorant tourist. The gate was closed and Russian Border woman was seating behind the gate on pavement. After 10 minutes she opens only one side gate just enough to squeeze Suzi by leaving 2-3" on each side. I waited few minutes but she kept waving me in. I don't know the reason but only one side of gate. Here we go, I said to myself. First window:  "passports please" -Passporte pazalatsa . Checked the visa and asked for machina (car) we were lead to another window, parked the car right there and entered in small brick office where there was a Mongolian looking lady -nice lady- I started conversation with her in English with few words of russian, she seemed to speak little but better than the other guy who was a custom officer. We filled out custom declaration forms 6 times. The other officer will not like if we cross something. Finally we got it right. He took my precious pink -Temporary importation permit issued in Vladivostok- I am going to miss that as I suffered for that in Vladivostok. I requested to him that I am coming back to Russia in 5 days and if I can keep that "Nyet" . Here is the amusing part. Anytime I asked him something he just stamp that custom form. He stamped that form so much that all you can see is smudge blue ink stamps all over the form. He seemed to enjoy the stamping and showed his authority by banging the stamp on that poor form. Finally we got one copy and headed to exit window. Here is the small window with officer seating inside doing something on computer. He pushes the wooden box -similar box I see at fuel stations. I put my passports and push the box back and waited .. and waited. and waited. and waited. Once in a while I pop my head in window just to let him know that I am still waiting here. He would not pay any attention at all. Finally he walks away from the office and another guy walks in. I pointed to him to our passports. He checks the immigration card - here I start sweating for registration issue- than he puts the passports through scanner and hooray we got our passports back. I just couldn't wait to get out fast enough.

Finally the gate opens and we are in "No Man Lands -area between two countries border-we drove to similar metal gate on Mongolia side. Monoglian office points me to go through some strange looking water ditch- the ditch is made of concrete with metal small steps descending to water pool than ascending on other side with same metal steps. I have never seen anything like this before. I stopped and looked again just to make sure that I am supposed to drive through that. She kept waving me to keep driving through that. Finally I dipped the car in and slowly came out on other side. I and Ami seat uptight in our seats to see how deep that ditch was. But we came out fine. We parked the car at passport control. Here is a small booth where a young Mongolian in dark glass checks our passports and ask for car papers. I asked him what is this for and turns out he was selling me insurance which requires by law. We our purchased insurance for a week and paid by Rubles as we don't have local currency -tugrik. With insurance form and passports we head to passport control. We were the only people there. One small booth. Here we get our visa. Than we go to car and drive to small custom cottage -brick island building on middle of the road. Huge Mongolian custom lady with her pants stuck in leather boots, looked pretty intimidating. She looked our passports and as we couldn't understand Mongolian and she couldn't English. She came out her booth and started screaming for someone. Here comes another lady in suit small and petit, took us in that booth and started filling out small car form. Again similar as Russian asking me about car information which we don't have. Finally she accepted my hand written numbers for car and stamped the form and waved us to other window. Here another lady pops from somewhere and ask us 50 rubles - no idea -why.  She brings another custom lady who walks with me to car. Car was so dirty, she asked me to open everything and started inspection. I figured that 50 rubles was for inspection. Finally she gives up and stamp that little poor form. We go back inside and she gives us back our passports and small custom form.

We changed our money in same complex where custom office, duty free shops and cafe. We were waved to go. We drive the car to last gate where young Mongolian officer checks our passports again and asks us the purpose our visit. This is the first time someone has asked me the purpose of the visit since I entered in Korea. He wished us good luck and gate opened and we were in small village in Mongolia. we drove out side village and immediately treated with beautiful landscape with wild horses playing in stream of water. Ahhhh what a site. Mongolia exactly the way I imagined, Beautiful steppe with small green grass and miles and miles of wilderness with pure beauty. We passed Mongolian herder on horsebacks with sheep, horses , cows and gers. The nomadic life. Ami tells me that 45% of Mongolia's  population lives nomadic lifestyle. We saw this along the route to Ulan-bat tar. We were treated with group of dual hump back wild camels. They paused looked at us and walked away. One can see miles ahead just this small single lane road between.  After about 5 hours of drive we enter in Ulaan Baatar. What a city not what I expected. We entered late evening so it was packed with traffic. Before we knew we were in middle of pool of cars. Watching both sides of the car , squeezing our self with the traffic. The road is two lane but 4 cars drive so we have inches to spare. But these guys have to be great drivers. We learned immediately that other cars will squeeze you out on right side if you drive like you are in US. I started driving in middle and just kept pushing ahead. This worked fine.

The trick is you don't look back. Just ahead, the guy behind you or on your side will take care of his vehicle and you take care of yours.  In few minutes we were driving like Mongolians, honking, cutting, squeezing. Our Guesthouse happens to be on other side of the town. So we had to cross whole of Ulan-bat tar. Some 60% of population of Mongolia's 2.5 million lives in Ulaan Baatar. We felt that they were all out on roads today. Finally all tired , worn out and eager to sleep we managed to find our next called Oasis café and guest house, located way out side of the east of Ulaan Baatar. It was hiding behind fuel station. We saw the sign sticking out of the building and made our way through labyrinth of streets pointing toward the sign. Did you know that in Mongolia there are very few places has real street address. Mostly you find the places by Latitude and Longitude in your GPS. This is how we found the palce. Once you find it , you still have to figure out how to get there.

We were greeted by a night watch man and Cybil -owner of the guest house- was waiting for us. She was a pleasant German lady. She gave us a tour of the place. We had a choice of staying in ger or guest house with two bunk beds. Bathrooms and toilets are shared. The café was nice. She had a refrigerated full of sodas, water and other juices. We can help our self and we have to write down whatever we consume on hanging board. Breakfast was included.

We decided to stay in Ger as that was our plan to drive all this way. It was beautiful, had 4 small beds, wood burning fire in middle. We immediately liked it even though it was outside and cold. There was small wooden toilet outside - squat toilet-we can use.

Night watch man started the fire for us and in less than two minutes it was like a sauna.  Even tough we were all tired but zeal to eat Indian food was greater. Earlier Ami read a review of Indian restaurant in Lonely Planet book and it was good. We asked Cybill and we can a taxi to this place which was not far.

Taxi system in Mongolia is great, we loved it. You cross the road of direction you want to go and stick out your hand. Some one with old beaten Hyundai will stop and take you for Fuel money. It could have his family in car , we squeezed our self in small car in which only thing works is wheels and steering wheel. This time we met a young man who was driving for money to be a film producer. We bargained the price, but when he told us what he was doing we gave him a good tip. He had a hard time to find Hazara our restaurant - beautifully decorated in solid wood and brightly colored clothing, with small tents . Hazara is Afghani tribe imported by Genghis Khan and they never left Mongolia. Hazara was an excellent choice, opened about 10 years ago by a north Indian man from Jaipur who lives in UK. The manager was very nice , we ordered food and he suggested that it was too much so he canceled some items. Lesson # 1 never order food when you are very hungry. Ami is still suffering with throat infection and couldn't eat her food. I felt bad as I was stuffing myself with Genghis beer and kebabs. Manager brought full glass of turmeric and salted water, which Ami drank without any hesitation. At home she would have made a huge scene about this. But she has been suffering for 7 days now and she needed to eat.

Next day was beautiful we hang out in Café relaxing, Cybil showed up at about 9 and I bombarded her with questions. She came here from Germany with her Austrian husband Renee in 1990, when Mongolia was in desperate conditions. They were finally coming out of Russian rule and trying to be an independent country. What a history - one time these people had the largest empire than any other empire and since then they have been under control of Chinese and now Russians. They got involve with Russia when Japan invaded Mongolia. Both Russian and Mongolian waded off Japanese and Russian stayed over. As usual like any other Russian city there is a statue of Lenin point ting to west - it seems they manufactured these statues in large quantities.  But Mongolian people think highly of Russians. They definitely don't like Chinese. Every 3^rd car in Mongolia is Toyota Land cruiser. 90% of the cars are SUVs. There are only three roads in Mongolia rest of them are dirt tracks -crosses the rivers and streams. This is favorite place for motor bikes and 4x4 expeditions.  Cybil and Renee came here as Christian missionaries to help children. Renee opened up carpenter school where he taught to locals. I and Ami still wonder where they get wood from as everything is built in solid wood. They don't' have forest of trees here.  They built shower rooms for locals to have shower, then they added a hair salon and flush toilets- all built by Renee, than café, next thing they build a guest house and now they have good business going. They still do lots of good work in local community. This is place is favorite among Bikers and Adventurist like us. She is a brave woman. There is still lots of corruption in country. The election is coming. I guess any country changes to different system and see the power of money which they have not seen in other system, they all go through the corruption to pile up the wealth. This is true for all developing countries in the world. One of the major vice of Democratic society. Good thing about the free system that now unlike older system it can be exposed with free press. Mongolia is trying to get it's place in world. People still stuck into history of Genghis Khan who is revered as Budha's re-incarnation. We don't believe that as Genghis Khan butchered million of people to expand his empire. Everything here has Genghis Khan's  name attached to it. Beer, Vodka, gifts and others.  I just read in local paper that They just commemorated the place where Budha's statue in middle and Genghis Khan and his sons are under with current prime minister in bottom. Today we visit Gandan Khidd Monastery. Building was started in 1838 by fourth Bogd Khan. It was a beautiful site. Huge , right in middle of the town. We bought tickets and warned by people that watch out for pick-pockets and bag slashers . We also read that Mongolia has high crime rate. Not advisable to walk around at night. We were swamped by small kids trying to sell birds seeds for pigeon which were crowding up to us asking "please feed us" we were joined by young Mongolia girl who offered her service as a guide to practice her English, we couldn't be more delighted. She goes to local college and wants to be tour guide. She explained us in very soft voice. Monastery had different sections -lama's prayer room, his residence, local prayer room, large temple in middle of it all. Lots of prayers wheels every where. Wooden pole where people circle for good luck. We entered in large temple and were awed by huuuuuuuuuuuuger Budha's golden statue.

The original statue 27M high with gold and bronze was build by Bogd Khan was removed by the communists in 1937 and taken to Leningrad. It's fate is still unknown, one theory is that it is still hidden in storage and another that it was melted down to make bullets.

In 1996 after nearly 5 years of work, a this new statue was consecrated by Dalai Lama.

 I couldn't fit in my camera. I guess no camera can fit that with that close. Surrounding this large statue there were small glass boxes from ground to the ceiling which is about 50 feet. Each box is filled with small Buddha's statue in different position. So I guess there must be 10000 plus Buddha's figures in these boxes. Scary looking Mongolian with black goatee -looked like Genghis Khan's soldier offered me $8 to take pictures, which I declined.  Young monks are fun to watch , bold headed and bright colored robes. We joined the mass prayer and it was just great. Chanting and humming. Packed with people and monks. Mongolia claims to be 90% Tibetans Buddhist. After tour we walked on local street, which was busy with shoppers. Mongolian young are well dressed in western cloths with all name brands -far cry from old Nomadic style. Most of the elderly were dressed in bright colored silk robes with sheepskin boots. Looked so beautiful and graceful.

We walked to Chez Bernard café - by the way Ulaanbaatar is full of Café, pubs, night clubs and bars I have ever seen concentrated in one place. They sure do have alcohol problem. Chez Bernard is hang out place for backpackers from Europe, Australians and few Americans. We met up with people from Isarel, Poland, Canada, Australian and one young man from Boston, who is going to attend UCLA after his return. We enjoyed the afternoon chatting with them all. They were all impressed by our adventure and wished us the very best. I asked the young Israeli from Sanai that how hard it is for him to get Visas for other country and he said very hard. As I read that even if you have Israeli stamp on your passports some central Asian countries make a big fuss about that. He had a funny story. He says he flips the coin and decide which country to visit, hopes on plane and fly. That night we visited national gallery for arts. Song and dance where we watched traditional Mongolian throat singing and dancing. It was fantastic. The big Mongolian sang pretty good from his throat, but the big woman sounded like she was strangling the bird. The dance was full of energy and was based on old Genghis stories. We couldn't understand but it was highly entertaining, worth 10000 Tugrik we spent.

Next day we go Inner Mongolia to see the wilderness. Our concerned was the car driving on dirt tracks and crossing those wooden bridges and streams. But we had great time and saw most gorgeous country. Mongolia is indeed place to visit in 4x4 and camp out. People are wonderful; staying in Ger is even more wonderful.

We spent 5 days in Mongolia and enjoyed them all. Our car is now showing the check engine light, we hired a local interpreter named Achit who took us to Suzuki service shop. Here the mechanic cleaned the carburetor, changed the spark plugs and got rid of the light. Bad Russian Fuel was the issue. He only used one spanner to do all these. Mongolians are surely resourceful people.  Second thing we needed is roof rack as our cheap roof bag was banging on roof and we were worried that roof will come down soon.

We left Mongolia for Russia , hoping to get in without any issue and get our new permit. It took us 3 hours to cross the border but it was OK. Russian custom agent wanted to check our luggage but car was so dirty that he changed his mind. I jumped on his computer to type up my own information about the car permit. It was amusing as I was using Russian custom officer's computer with Cyrillic keyboard. Soon I got hang of it and was typing 60Chrs per minute.  I can proudly say that I arun patel was the only guy who used the Russian government computer in their own office.

Now we drive to west of Russia to our new destination Sochi which is last point on western frontier of Russia. We sadly decided to skip the stans as there are too many "ifs" specially the roads. We were just told that Stans roads are even worse than Russian , and we thought nothing could be worst than Russian roads. My Uzbek and Turkmenistan Visas are yet other issues. We were sad, but Ami's time to go back to school is more important. So sadly we drive to west to Ulan-Ude , Irtskuk, Novosbrisk, Omsk, Cheblainsk. Ufa, Samara, Volograd (Stalingrad) to Sochi and cross in Ukraine.

 Best Regards